When in the course of human enterprise it becomes necessary to diversify, there exist certain survival tools one may employ in order to thrive among disheartened throngs, and to deliver fabulous goods and services to one’s friends and associates who crave bang-for-buck returns and immeasurable pleasures related to wine. Hear the sounds of hooves trotting along the road. Keen to decode the message of goodwill. Embrace the good news of Simple Math Cellars.
This is the age of the negociant reborn. Regularians, here’s a definition in case you need it: a negociant is a travelling sourcer of fine grapes and wine ageing in barrels that is found to be of adequate quality to label, brand and purvey, most likely at delightful prices and chiefly of top quality. This is a French term, used for a long time, and it’s a practice employed all over Burgundy and Bordeaux. Often, it connotes the work of winemakers in the “AP” or “custom crush” arenas of the wine business. There are small differences between all three, but suffice it say that I am now a negociant and will be grabbing up ridiculously premium wines without homes and selling them for fairly absurd prices under my Simple Math Cellars label. For the love of it, and for the fun.
The first tranche is becoming available in February or March, depending upon when the numerous and varying components of the business are completed. This isn’t too difficult but it takes time. All the while, I shall advise you to the best of my ability. But as we gear up for an inaugural release, here’s what’s cooking: Simple Math Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon – Mayacamas Mountains (Sonoma County). The grapes were farmed organically at about 1600 feet above sea level, enjoying a truly unique microclimate – terrific directivity and duration of sunshine, cooling fog and rugged volcanic soil. The vines are stressed, irrigated quite sparingly (nearly dry farmed) and sprayed only with fungicide three years prior to this vintage. The flavor profile is of dark berries, currant, cassis, cardamom, molasses and truffles. The acidity is “drink me with steaks, grilled peppers and eggplant”, and the structural/textural outlook translates to medium tannins rounding out to fine grain by 2010, ripe-round by 2011 and hitting a Medoc depth by 2014. This is big wine, really delicious and complex, and built for the long haul. One of the better Sonoma 2007s you’ll find under $60 and the best one you will get access to for under $45.
At about 70 cases, this $40 bottle is a no-brainer. If you’re looking for chewy chocolate brownies, look for Coombsville ’07s but if you’re looking for Left Bank Bordeaux lookalikes, come by Simple Math and have your mind blown. Keep in mind that I’ve tasted all over California and, maybe I haven’t gotten access to an overwhelming amount of fruit but this juice is a gold mine. It was crafted by Randall Watkins and Tom Garrett (skill sets having been Watkins, Chappellet, Moon Mountain, Revana, Bugay) and aged for the better part of 20 months in French oak. I think you’ll really enjoy this as a special event wine without having to spend Saturday night money. Make an occasion and share in the luck. Visit Simple Math Cellars and drop me a line. Pre-ordering is casual; we’ll do this via messaging for the time being. Shipping concerns are also handled on a case by case basis. Thanks for stopping by and make a great day.
Christian
Simple Math Cellars Has Arrived
Patel Winery – Napa Valley Is Freshening Up Its Culture A Bit
In the ongoing quest to try to make a difference, I stumbled upon a like-minded individual who made me feel as though there’s more to the dog-n-pony show. I mean, I knew there was, but I’m talking about another facet of the underground, if you will. And I’m not referring to life in the caves because that’s just not so Regularian, now, is it? I speak of a guy who does what he does because he likes what he does, which has become increasingly hard to come by. And it’s all about wine, and you know how I spend my time, so…
Raj Patel was born in a small village in the Indian state of Gujarat, 80 or 90 miles northwest of Mumbai. His aunt was one of five siblings, and her brother-in-law immigrated in ’23 to the central valley area and took work as a migrant agricultural worker – the first Patel in the United States that we know of. Raj came to California at the age of six. He has family in Canada, South Africa and England. He went back to his home town in 2005 and, just like we’ve all suspected, he found a huge middle class and a much huger gap between the upper and lower classes. In India today, those that have the means really dig wine, and big wine at that. Raj works today in the corporate sector to fund his fledgling winery but won’t need to for very long, I suspect.
We were rapping about Indian music and culture, and came to the conclusion that the closed-door mentality of Napa Valley is opening up to Indian culture. Hell, one of Denzel’s flicks features the Bollywood musical flair, and an Indian proprietress has a high-end restaurant project in the valley nowadays. But the thing about Raj is that he’s not interested in building a “token” identity or in getting famous. He parallels more with the Stones (fame by virtue of great music) rather than with Britney Spears (crazy capers + dumb stunts + wild shenanigans / questionable talent = publicity agogo). His goal is to just – and get this, it’s just like my man Lou Kapcsandy – to just make great red wine. Huh. No marketing, no overpricing, no positioning or gladhanding. He is a bit dependent upon ratings, I might add, but he knows their function, and he realizes that it’s kind of asinine to charge $100 for an 89-point wine. Whatever. That’s for a rainy day. Don’t uncork that bottle just yet, Christian.
He was a CrushPadder but not any longer. That operation was pretty good, but a teensy bit pricey, and working there prevented Raj from joining the Napa Valley Vintners’ Association because of the location requirements. So he’s over at Silverado Studios, buying some grapes from Premium Pacific’s Coombsville Vineyard (can you say Kobalt-Merus-Mark Herold?) and some juice from Andy Beckstoffer – yup, ToKalon juice! The Beautiful. The flippin’ sweet, Pedro. He also has some rows leased within Max McKenny’s vineyard nestled between Chappellet and Gemstone. Needless to say, there’s plenty of “good material” to work with, as those deep in the wine biz would say. Actually, comedians say the same thing but only in reference to assessments of inferiority, stupidity or backasswardness.
Raj is a step ahead of me in the wine game because I’ve spent so many hours and taste buds figuring wine out, whereas he’s in there deep – pruning, blending, pressing and getting purple. I’m a mere negociant. But hang on, Regularians, the day of the Simple Grape will come (eh? bookmark me and you’ll find out) in another year or so. But this is about Raj Patel, the innovator. He’s not afraid to jump into the game but he’s also largely true to his own palate. He loves Pomerol, loves Bond, likes Ghost Block, was impressed by a Screagle he bought about 8 years ago for under $100 (that’s what he said, I promise). Again, a little heavy on the points game, but he’s particular about making the best damn red wines he can. We talked about the World Wine Homogeneity Organization (don’t bother looking it up – it’s on-the-fly and fake) and I wanted to get his take on something: are we still moving into an era of all wines tasting uncomfortably similar? Are winemakers gonna keep sending their samples to the lab behind the curtain to get tweaked for Parker points? Or can we expect a return to when it wasn’t so difficult to identify a wine’s place of origin by tasting it blind? He responded in an interesting way, telling me that there won’t be so much choice with the ’09 vintage around these parts, what with that nasty rain storm that clobbered us before most cab/merlot/petit verdot, etc. could see 23 Brix. Meaning this: Napa/Sonoma alcohol levels are going to have to be more European this year. Acidity may be another cat to tangle with but can be handled much more easily than low sugars. Boo hoo, methinks as I consider the marketing gurus flurrying to convince the Ubercritics to make concessions and keep the tasting rooms hopping. Anyway, not my worry – it may make some of the top-tier wines’ inevitable price increases plateau for a year, allowing more Regularians access for the sake of palate education. Which leads me to another interesting point: Raj is in a solid position of not needing to panic at all in “this economy” because his personal income has funded all production costs. So if his constituents – those with the passion and resources – know his good thang when they see it, they will buy it. If not, c’est la vie. There are only 4-500 cases among three wines available anyway, and those aren’t going to do anything but take off based on mailing list and word-of-mouth, the winery owner’s dream. It’s crazy-curious to me: Raj copyrighted the name “Patel” and ever since publishing his website in April and pimping the Facebook game a little, he’s been pinged from 13 countries and 38 US states. Everybody wants onto the bandwagon. I don’t get it, but I’m inspired by it. Raj is (pardon me, Gary V, but I did buy your book) CRUSHING IT.
I recently tasted one of the remaining bottles of Patel Winery 2007 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (under 15 cases left). I told Raj I’d review it here but I just don’t feel like doing that in depth because it’s Sunday and I’m drinking Bordeaux and I have to commute 50 miles to work in the morning. I will say this. The zin rocks. At $30, it drinks like 45 bucks to my sensibility. No lie, no fluff, and no kickback. I’m sending Raj a bottle of my cab, so we’re even-steven on that. Go search Patel Winery and buy 3 bottles. Drink two with friends; don’t bogart. Then hold one back for 6 years and tell me I steered you wrong. I dare ya.
So I says to him, I says what’s in your cellar that you need/want to get rid of? He tells me it’s the green wines, the Cask 23 and Fay. And that’s as far as that conversation goes.
I asked him, “Orange County or Manhattan? San Luis Obispo or Mendocino? Little Rock or Houston? Yountville or Santa Rosa? Who’s your network and what’s the style and image you think you’ll resonate with?” He assured me again that it’s not about getting famous but that based on who’s contacting him and ordering his zin, sight unseen, it’s very cool to think about making hay in places like Rhode Island, upstate New York (my old stomps, BTW), Chicago and the like. He’s very childlike and adventurous in that regard. It’s not about market penetration or channels or any of the corporate gumbo that refers to wine as a SKU or a product. It’s just vibing the scene in a way that makes sense, whatever that scene may be. I love it – grassroots, boutique, micro, Raj Patel is a man of character, anything but ostentatious. A real guy. I daresay, a Regularian, ‘cept I didn’t run that word on him because I want him to read this later and go huh, you know what? I am one of those.
So what’s coming up? A merlot-based blend, a cabernet-based blend and perhaps a vineyard-designate cab. Plan on releases in the spring and in the fall. Plan also on huge wines, aged 18-24 months in French oak and 18 months in bottle. I’ll let ya know when I taste the samples and will render some reasonably accurate tasting notes at that point. Cripes, maybe I’ll even come back and say something about that 2007 zinfandel, but only if the mood strikes. This is near 1500 words, so in the interest of some new friends who complain that they either can’t swim through my vocab or just don’t have the time to read my posts all the way through, I will remind you all that I don’t pity you your limited time but I respect it. So it’s a wrap. Love ya. Until next time….
A Grand Cru Experience, part one: Burgundy
It’s time to chronicle a Burgundy tasting experience from the other day. Ahem, the other day? Well, it was about 5 weeks ago but who’s holding a powerfully grueling schedule against me? Not most people I know because we seem to be in a similar boat. Anyway, this tasting was unique for two reasons: first because it was actually a “drinking” where spitting wasn’t professionally expected; and second – we were hanging out watching punchdowns and just having some lovely beverages, much like taking a a break for a spot of tea or a pint of Pliny the Elder. Tough life, but someone has to live it! So here’s what we was quaffin’, with my personal notes:
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Camille Giroud 2005 Corton Rognets
Rognets is a big shot on the hill of Corton. The wine’s quite a powerful, racy bowl of black raspberry tart with a dose of nutmeg that pulls through the midpalate on through a substantial finish. Not your cousin’s ultraripe, modern style. A little bit reminiscent of the Santa Rita Hills, only 100% pinot noir. You know what I mean by that! I liked it and anticipate liking it for quite a while because I enjoy its “close to the vest” components, and I know the acidity will be a surfboard that carries the whole package into the future. I expect tart strawberry to emerge and then give way to a nice, black soil veneer. Cool wine.
Faiveley 2001 Corton Clos des Cortons
Right next door to Rognets. Now, let it be known that I like pinot noir when it’s honest and pure. Here’s a candidate for all that plus a “wow factor” – it’s vibrant and memorable. Grippy and complex; somewhat ethereal (certain earthy components come and go, like a shell game of espresso and Swedish licorice). It’s a long ride in the glass. I suggest a philosophical but openminded three-way conversation on a west-facing patio. This wine makes friends and strengthens your best bonds (make sure not to tell ‘em you have more because they’ll be back on Wednesday night with a Seasmoke to trade, and that ain’t gonna cut it!)
Faiveley 2001 Clos Vougeot
Flippin’ sweet, Pedro. Who doesn’t love Clos Vougeot?? I’ve had some that were pretty reserved but that’s just an aspect of youth and proves the merits of holding top Burgs for a while. This is a tongue massage, a hug and a warm dish of apple cobbler from the elderly woman who’s taught you everything you ever needed to know about human relations. A vague review, yes. But use your mind-link to feel what I’m saying and you’ll know that this wine rocks.
Anne Gros 2002 Clos Vougeot “Le Grand Maupertuis”
Made by a bro-sis team, picked pretty ripe and built for a longer haul that you might guess from 2000. It comes on like a rhinoceros at the front (and the nose, of course), then it lays out incredibly well-planned blobs, smears and bumps like Jackson Pollack trying to liven you up with cherry pie filling and cinnamon. Then, when the dust settles (literally, the tannins approach at midpalate a little bit astringent and powdery), there’s this shimmer of knowing: here’s something that’s going to take a long time to hit. Maybe even even 15 years. If you can find it and have a choice between the 2000 and ’85 or something crazily spendy, get this one. You’ll be happy and your wallet will thank you for lunch.
Faiveley 2001 “Latricieres” – Chambertin
This is a hot vineyard site. The wine was pretty mineral-laden, almost punitive. I was transported to calculus class, sitting in the middle to try and absorb what I needed to, yet writing some poetry in the margin to maintain a grounded sense of identity. I got it but didn’t feel it. Sorry.
Michel Magnien 2003 Clos St. Denis
What a privilege. I’ve been slinging his son Frederic’s popular wines for a few years, but it’s just not that common to see Michel’s wines around. They get scooped up quickly and I’m just not as much the insider as I want to be. (Call to action: send me Michel Magnien wines just because you love me.) Nice wine! Full-on fruit, a little bitty pop of menthol, superb texture. I like glycerin and this is the impression I got – a mouthful. Sexy, infallible, and good to consume earlier in life.
Gerard 2003 Raphet Charmes Chambertin
Remember Raphet appearing in the Spectator? I don’t argue that they figured this winner out. I like it. It’s like Nicholas Cage showing up at your kid’s graduation party, sagging his pants. I’m serious – lots to talk about, and many opportunities to ask, “Why did you choose to do this or that? How can I sign up for your fan club? Wanna shoot some pool?” The intellectual party wine – only when the head count has dwindled to perhaps four. Be real with your treasures, gentle regularians.
JF Mugnier 2005 Nuits Clos de la Marechale
A massive premier cru monopole. Halfway up the hillside, the whole vineyard owned by the Mugnier family for over a century. A grand wine. A college football marching band for the palate. Many almost sweet components of wild berry and cardamom; then there’s violet on the nose, which found me standing around for 15 minutes just smelling deeply and grinning like I’d found the keys to the Maserati. But it’s not a Burgundy Junior, oh no. You can really enjoy this for years, and while I would find it sensational with wild rice, I’d also find it fabulous to walk around sniffing and swallowing in tiny increments. Thumbs up.
That’s what I have to say about that. Pretty nice Sunday afternoon, wouldn’t you say? Now, what made the experience extra cool was the setting. I’ll tell you more shortly, but here’s a teaser for you sleuths: It all went down in my favorite part of the Russian River Valley (south of the river), and there were other wines on hand that qualify as “local grand cru” in my opinion. Until next time, keep it in the glass a little while longer….
