It’s time to chronicle a Burgundy tasting experience from the other day. Ahem, the other day? Well, it was about 5 weeks ago but who’s holding a powerfully grueling schedule against me? Not most people I know because we seem to be in a similar boat. Anyway, this tasting was unique for two reasons: first because it was actually a “drinking” where spitting wasn’t professionally expected; and second – we were hanging out watching punchdowns and just having some lovely beverages, much like taking a a break for a spot of tea or a pint of Pliny the Elder. Tough life, but someone has to live it! So here’s what we was quaffin’, with my personal notes:
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Camille Giroud 2005 Corton Rognets
Rognets is a big shot on the hill of Corton. The wine’s quite a powerful, racy bowl of black raspberry tart with a dose of nutmeg that pulls through the midpalate on through a substantial finish. Not your cousin’s ultraripe, modern style. A little bit reminiscent of the Santa Rita Hills, only 100% pinot noir. You know what I mean by that! I liked it and anticipate liking it for quite a while because I enjoy its “close to the vest” components, and I know the acidity will be a surfboard that carries the whole package into the future. I expect tart strawberry to emerge and then give way to a nice, black soil veneer. Cool wine.
Faiveley 2001 Corton Clos des Cortons
Right next door to Rognets. Now, let it be known that I like pinot noir when it’s honest and pure. Here’s a candidate for all that plus a “wow factor” – it’s vibrant and memorable. Grippy and complex; somewhat ethereal (certain earthy components come and go, like a shell game of espresso and Swedish licorice). It’s a long ride in the glass. I suggest a philosophical but openminded three-way conversation on a west-facing patio. This wine makes friends and strengthens your best bonds (make sure not to tell ‘em you have more because they’ll be back on Wednesday night with a Seasmoke to trade, and that ain’t gonna cut it!)
Faiveley 2001 Clos Vougeot
Flippin’ sweet, Pedro. Who doesn’t love Clos Vougeot?? I’ve had some that were pretty reserved but that’s just an aspect of youth and proves the merits of holding top Burgs for a while. This is a tongue massage, a hug and a warm dish of apple cobbler from the elderly woman who’s taught you everything you ever needed to know about human relations. A vague review, yes. But use your mind-link to feel what I’m saying and you’ll know that this wine rocks.
Anne Gros 2002 Clos Vougeot “Le Grand Maupertuis”
Made by a bro-sis team, picked pretty ripe and built for a longer haul that you might guess from 2000. It comes on like a rhinoceros at the front (and the nose, of course), then it lays out incredibly well-planned blobs, smears and bumps like Jackson Pollack trying to liven you up with cherry pie filling and cinnamon. Then, when the dust settles (literally, the tannins approach at midpalate a little bit astringent and powdery), there’s this shimmer of knowing: here’s something that’s going to take a long time to hit. Maybe even even 15 years. If you can find it and have a choice between the 2000 and ’85 or something crazily spendy, get this one. You’ll be happy and your wallet will thank you for lunch.
Faiveley 2001 “Latricieres” – Chambertin
This is a hot vineyard site. The wine was pretty mineral-laden, almost punitive. I was transported to calculus class, sitting in the middle to try and absorb what I needed to, yet writing some poetry in the margin to maintain a grounded sense of identity. I got it but didn’t feel it. Sorry.
Michel Magnien 2003 Clos St. Denis
What a privilege. I’ve been slinging his son Frederic’s popular wines for a few years, but it’s just not that common to see Michel’s wines around. They get scooped up quickly and I’m just not as much the insider as I want to be. (Call to action: send me Michel Magnien wines just because you love me.) Nice wine! Full-on fruit, a little bitty pop of menthol, superb texture. I like glycerin and this is the impression I got – a mouthful. Sexy, infallible, and good to consume earlier in life.
Gerard 2003 Raphet Charmes Chambertin
Remember Raphet appearing in the Spectator? I don’t argue that they figured this winner out. I like it. It’s like Nicholas Cage showing up at your kid’s graduation party, sagging his pants. I’m serious – lots to talk about, and many opportunities to ask, “Why did you choose to do this or that? How can I sign up for your fan club? Wanna shoot some pool?” The intellectual party wine – only when the head count has dwindled to perhaps four. Be real with your treasures, gentle regularians.
JF Mugnier 2005 Nuits Clos de la Marechale
A massive premier cru monopole. Halfway up the hillside, the whole vineyard owned by the Mugnier family for over a century. A grand wine. A college football marching band for the palate. Many almost sweet components of wild berry and cardamom; then there’s violet on the nose, which found me standing around for 15 minutes just smelling deeply and grinning like I’d found the keys to the Maserati. But it’s not a Burgundy Junior, oh no. You can really enjoy this for years, and while I would find it sensational with wild rice, I’d also find it fabulous to walk around sniffing and swallowing in tiny increments. Thumbs up.
That’s what I have to say about that. Pretty nice Sunday afternoon, wouldn’t you say? Now, what made the experience extra cool was the setting. I’ll tell you more shortly, but here’s a teaser for you sleuths: It all went down in my favorite part of the Russian River Valley (south of the river), and there were other wines on hand that qualify as “local grand cru” in my opinion. Until next time, keep it in the glass a little while longer….
